Blog Meets Food In South Korea (Part 2 of 4)

Recently in major cities like New York and Los Angeles Asian food like Korean cuisine has been acquiring something of a makeover.

And perhaps it’s a sign of the times. Inexpensive eats like those found in food trucks like Roy Choi’s Kogi Truck or Japanese pop-up shops like Yuji’s Ramen are taking more traditional Asian foods like kimchi or Japanese ramen for a whole new spin, while helping diners save a little money in what’s arguably a tougher, economic climate. This is of course happening against the backdrop of an ever-changing American palate that is becoming increasingly acquainted with Asian flavors that are pungent, spicy, and fun.

In what is Part 2 of AsianTalks’ interview with Joe McPherson of ZenKimchi, we travel back to the moment when Korean food and McPherson’s career decidedly converged, learn of its unique appeal to this Korea-based expat, and why the Internet is changing the expatriate population in places like Seoul. And — needless to say — we can start to understand how personalities like McPherson are ultimately influencing the ever-changing tastes and preferences of Americans.

AsianTalks: Joe, when you began blogging you were doing it more or less for fun. Then suddenly almost overnight you were one of South Korea’s major English-language bloggers, making major appearances on television.

It literally did happen overnight. In early 2007 the New York Times called me, for an article they were doing on the sudden explosion of Korean fried chicken popularity in Manhattan. (They called me) because basically I was the only game in town when it came to Korean food blogs in 2007. Also it just so happened that I have a background with fried chicken. My dad used to run a Popeye’s when I was a kid, and I come from the South, so I guess that credential was well, I guess I know fried chicken. So the article started to become more about — maybe a third of it is about me and my blog. And it got me noticed. And since then, more stuff’s been happening. But that was the biggest jump I ever had.

AsianTalks: And as a Southerner, what is the allure of Korean food for you? Are you really into the barbecue?

That’s a good guess, but everyone’s big on barbecue. I’m not big on royal court cuisine, but too many of the officials are obsessed with promoting this stuff that Koreans don’t really eat. It’s too expensive, too frilly and fussy.

Korean food has the same qualities that attract Francophiles to provincial cuisine. It’s a very rural, rustic cuisine. I learned this after a couple of years in Korea and I finally went out to countryside, mountainside restaurants. And this food really spoke to me. Because in Westerners’ imaginations about Asian cuisine, there’s the really urban Japanese style, there’s the exotic Southeast Asian, but there’s really not much for that just down home country food. And Korea kind of fills that void.

I find that the best food I’ve ever had in Korea seems to be that way. Last year the best meal I had was at a thatched roof guesthouse over in the traditional folk village near Andong. It was the only place serving food in the village. There was no sound, there was barely any electricity there, and it was one of the best meals I’ve ever had.

AsianTalks: What do you like most about living in Korea?

I would say the difference between my life in America and living in Korea is I feel like I’ve been dumped into a bathtub filled with ice water. (Korea is) extremely energetic, things change really quickly here. I feel like I’m in an important place at an important time in history and I want to watch that history happen. You’re watching a country really grow and change. And history books will talk about this when this is finished and I just want to be here to witness it.

AsianTalks: Your food career has grown right alongside the Internet. How much has social media and technology buoyed your work?

I can’t imagine living in Korea without the Internet. I pretty much live out in the boonies, as far as foreigners go. I live inAnyang, which is over Gwanak mountain in southern Seoul. But I would not have connected with as many people at all. I would not have gotten as much as information as I needed, I think it would have been very easy to go down the negative path, and really hate my life here if I didn’t have technology for connection and information.

And I noticed that in the attitude of foreigners who come to Korea now. It seems that the more connected we are through technology, the more positive people come here. I hear stories of people who came here in the 90s, and they’re hilarious, it’s like the Wild West.

Now we’re getting really talented people coming here. I’m sure you know these people, like the couple that doesEatYourKimchi. I mean, you get some really good talent these days. And I think without the technology, people wouldn’t have discovered Korea as well. I think people wouldn’t enjoy their lives as well. And people are learning to enjoy their lives much better here.

Up next: You’ve come a long way, kimchi! Find out why Korea’s most famous dish needs its own unauthorized biography, and why it’s finally getting the respect it deserves.

By: Elizabeth Shim